I guided an ascent of the N Summit of Mt Victoria yesterday for Yamnuska.com.
The Swiss Guides trail from the Plain of Six Glaciers teahouse is in great
shape. Thank you Parks.
We found great consolidated snow on the glacier which made for easy travel. The
bergshrund is easy to cross in numerous places. Most of the cornice at the
centre of the Victoria-Collier col is gone. We climbed the central gully which
was still holding some soft snow.
Above the col, conditions are deteriorating. There is still a cornice along the
ridge with visible cracking. Some older tracks wandered out onto this snow, we
stuck to visible rock. We were able to utilize the N snow slope to bypass the
rock ridge but in most places we were penetrating to ice. Crampons were useful
here.
At this time there is snow well past the toe of the glacier. Water is available
at the teahouse or the black band.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com
Victoria-Collier col centre
NE Ridge N Victoria w N snow slopes
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