Just returned from a week at the BMC camp in the Purcells, and
thought I would send a few pictures and a brief update on the
conditions in the area, as more folks and guides will be heading this
way over the next few weeks.
We had an unsettled week with a number of days where we retreated
close to our summit objectives due to changing weather conditions.
The firn line continues to rise, exposing more rock which may
lengthen ascent times in some cases.
One party made it close to the summit of Mt McCarthy but turned
around due to approaching weather. The E ridge of McCarthy has a
short loose section which needs care to avoid large suspect loose blocks.
No parties climbed Mt Stone, though the picture shows the approximate route.
On Thursday July 24th we had steady rain with 10-40cm of new snow in
isolated terrain features above 2600m which we observed first hand
Friday on various less technical objectives.
A few parties climbed Mt Conrad on Saturday the 26th. We started this
day with clear skies, and below freezing temps on the glaciers.
Travel was tedious in the new snow with a breakable non supportive
crust. The old snow beneath remained quite firm through the day which
made the descents more difficult as the new snow became moist and slippery.
One party continued to climb Mt Malloy after Mt Conrad, which took
just over 1.5 hours from the Mt Conrad N ridge bypass. Only minor
sluffing and snowballing was noted on the 26th.
A few days of this forecasted hot weather should melt the new snow.
The quickest access to Mt Conrad seems to be over the Winnie the Pooh
col, though another col near Last Chance peak may be quicker if
returning or going to Mt Malloy as there is less elevation gain.
One size two slab was noted on the CR1 (Climbing Ridge) peak early in
the week starting beneath a cornice and releasing to glacier ice.
High value scenery with rarely climbed peaks made this camp an excellent venue.
Peter Amann Mountain Guide
Kirsten Knechtel Muntain Guide
Todd Anthony Malone Ski Guide
Hamish Sanderson Ski Guide
Peter Amann
Mountain Guiding
www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@xxxxxxxxxxxx
from Pooh col to N ridge access to Conrad.JPG
Description: JPEG image
McCarthy glacier.JPG
Description: JPEG image
Mt Stone.JPG
Description: JPEG image
ridge on McCarthy.JPG
Description: JPEG image
some of the Conrad peak area.JPG
Description: JPEG image
Winnie the pooh, Conrad and Honey pot.JPG
Description: JPEG image
access to McCarthy.JPG
Description: JPEG image
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
| 
