I guided an ascent of Reprobate yesterday, August 9th. I hadn't been on the
route since the early 90s. We used the route picture/topo and description from
Canadian Rock, Select Climbs of the West and each pitch outlined there ends at
a bolted anchor. I think that the first two pitches, especially the second,
have taken a hit for the loose with last year's floods and some traffic. There
are loose blocks and one must climb with care. The rest of the route is very
solid and there are ring bolts to the end of pitch 8. The anchors of pitch 9
and 10 are two hanger (no ring bolts). Pitch 10 was 63 or 64 metres for us.
Pitch 11 mentions a chimney, but we climbed the crack indicated on the
picture/topo and there is no chimney (I think the chimney is the next crack to
the right in the picture). We didn't find a bolted anchor at the end of pitch
11 (the top), perhaps there is one on top of the chimney?
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
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