[MCR] Athabasca N Face Bypass Aug 20

Kris Irwin and I guided a small group up the N Face Bypass route on Mt Athabasca two days ago (Aug 20).

In the lower ice gully we were strafed by a couple of episodes of minor rockfall which seemed to be a result of warm air temperatures. With clear skies, a reasonable overnight radiation freeze, and an early start we had hoped we could beat the heat. Fortunately it did no more than get our attention.

While it was raining further south we had excellent weather and travel conditions on hard snow and ice surfaces. All ice above the bergschrund.

A few pitches above the schrund:

The Scottish Gully:

Ramp route is in excellent condition. AA Col is reported to be in poor condition. Here's a photo of the Ramp:

Looking across at the AAG exam pitching it out on the Silverhorn:

Regards,

Tom Wolfe
Mountain Guide ACMG/IFMGA
www.sawback.com
Canmore, Alberta

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