[MCR] Mt Fay Update

I guided Brad and David today on an ascent of the Central Ice Route of Mt Fay via the Perren Ledges approach. It was a beautiful bluebird day.

The Perren Ledges are dry. The recent snowfall has melted back to about 2800m. We had a great refreeze this am that was still firm on shady aspects in the pm. We didn't observe any cornice failures or pm sloughing.

Fay was busy today given recent MCRs. All NF routes and the W Ridge were travelled, including both left and right finishes on the Central Ice Route.  All climbers reported excellent snow covered ice and great fall climbing conditions.

We descended the W Ridge. The ridge itself was dry and we did not use crampons. The N snow slope exit was quite icy for the first 30m after which it is possible to kick steps down. This bergshrund is well bridged with the recent storm snow.

Looking across the golden larches, the Big Step on Mt Temple appeared snow free. We couldn't see into the Black Towers exit gully. 

Fall alpine season is on!

Brent Peters

Alpine Guide

PeakStratagem.com

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