Surprisingly good conditions on Cascade today.
The climbing is better than it looks from the parking area. Thin eggshell of ice
in spots with water running in behind it but good protection can be found while
tip-toeing around these sections. We tackled the second to last pitch on the
climbers right side and avoided the hollow and delicate looking centre line. The
last pitch at the back of the small bowl before the walk-off is also in great
shape. Lots of one-swing sticks in good ice throughout the climb.
Note: Someone has removed the bolted chain anchor at the top of the
first pitch, where it doglegs to the right, but all other anchors seem to be
there.
Kristopher
Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide