Climbed Bourgeau left hand today. Good enough trail with the usual little
scraps of snow covered ice just below the base. 1st pitch was rather “natural”.
No pick holes and a fragile veneer that needed to be cleared in places. Fat ice
though and good screws. Next two pitches were in great shape but we actually
bailed on the last pitch as it felt way too warm to be hanging around on the
fragile ice and with the slopes above.
Rappels in ok shape but the anchor on top of the 2nd pitch(climbers left) is
almost buried already and may be hard to find after the next storm. It is just
below and slightly upstream of a collection of rusty and bent over old bolts if
you can see them.
There is enough snow on the approach now that there may be an avalanche hazard
down there with the next storm. The current surface is a soft crust with a
dusting of snow on top and that crust will likely get worse given the coming
warmth.
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan@xxxxxxxxx
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