Fantastic day on Murchison Falls yesterday with Rob and Zach. Mostly clear
skies, light winds and -6c at the trailhead in the am.
The slopes that threaten the approach trail are holding little snow and we did
not feel exposed on the hike in. There was some debris in the boulder field
that prob ran during the last storm a couple weeks ago. At treeline, what's
left has settled out and there is a semi-supportive temperature crust from the
warm weather we've had lately. Found supportive hard slabs on slopes between
lower pitches.
We zigzagged up the right side of the route utilizing caves for sheltered
belays. Ice was dry where we climbed. Last pitch offered featured climbing on
interesting ice. Lots of new ice and a mixture of snow and ice. Felt like wi4+
but good protection was tricky to find. Ice quality varied from excellent to
poor aerated ice.
Temperatures cooled off in the afternoon and it was -8c when we drove off
around 730.
No avalanches observed.
Kris Irwin - ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
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