[MCR] Rockies - Icefields Parkway - Weeping Wall

Subject: [MCR] Rockies - Icefields Parkway - Weeping Wall
Date: Wed, 17 Dec 2014 20:14:25 -0700
Today, with Swiss friends Sylvan and Sam, we made an ascent of the Weeping 
Wall. Slightly overcast skies and cool morning temps minimized overall warming 
of the route. The first pitches were brittle where the water was not running, 
until the sun came around.

Snivelling Gully - the lower pitch opened up during the last chinook. It's 
healing but is a hollow tube at this time. 

Lower Weeping Wall LHS - the midpoint of this route fell off during the last 
chinook. It's trying to heal but doesn't look stable at this time. It may be 
possible to sneak up on the left towards Snivelling Gully and then back to 
rejoin the final pitch.

Lower Weeping Wall Central Pillar - it's a steep dry chandeliered pillar about 
3m in diameter.

Lower Weeping Wall RHS - the most continuous line on the wall right now, taking 
good protection throughout.

All the topouts of the Lower Wall are thin or dry requiring special attention.

Weeping Pillar - P1 was chandeliered and sun affected. It was 80m to a 
protected belay behind the P2 pillar. P2 was steep, unconsolidated ice, wet 
with limited protection. We chose to climb between the fluted domes 70m to 
another cave belay. P3 was a hollow tube to the roof, 30m to where the angle 
eases. Very wet.

Little ice released from the rock on either side of the Upper Weeping Wall 
today.

Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com

Teardrop and Weeping Pillar

JPEG image



Sent from my iPhone
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