Today, with Swiss friends Sylvan and Sam, we made an ascent of the Weeping
Wall. Slightly overcast skies and cool morning temps minimized overall warming
of the route. The first pitches were brittle where the water was not running,
until the sun came around.
Snivelling Gully - the lower pitch opened up during the last chinook. It's
healing but is a hollow tube at this time.
Lower Weeping Wall LHS - the midpoint of this route fell off during the last
chinook. It's trying to heal but doesn't look stable at this time. It may be
possible to sneak up on the left towards Snivelling Gully and then back to
rejoin the final pitch.
Lower Weeping Wall Central Pillar - it's a steep dry chandeliered pillar about
3m in diameter.
Lower Weeping Wall RHS - the most continuous line on the wall right now, taking
good protection throughout.
All the topouts of the Lower Wall are thin or dry requiring special attention.
Weeping Pillar - P1 was chandeliered and sun affected. It was 80m to a
protected belay behind the P2 pillar. P2 was steep, unconsolidated ice, wet
with limited protection. We chose to climb between the fluted domes 70m to
another cave belay. P3 was a hollow tube to the roof, 30m to where the angle
eases. Very wet.
Little ice released from the rock on either side of the Upper Weeping Wall
today.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
PeakStratagem.com
Teardrop and Weeping Pillar
Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________
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