[MCR] The Queen (Maligne Canyon) and Lady Wilson

Subject: [MCR] The Queen (Maligne Canyon) and Lady Wilson
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2014 11:03:25 -0700 (MST)
Visitor Safety out on training days exploring some of the local ice conditions 
in the Jasper National Park forecast region. 
Climbed the Queen in Maligne canyon on Sunday. Found it to be in typical shape, 
meaning it's somewhat aerated with lots of mushrooms requiring good protection 
skills on lead. Generally going at a headspacey 4+ on the left side of the 
pillar. Further to the right, sometimes referred to as the King is still quite 
wet and dripping, doesn't seem to be getting much travel yet. The last wall on 
the bottom end of the canyon is in it's normal state of abuse with the left 
side giving the only continuous line of ice to the top. The top out on all the 
climbs is very shallow and beaten up and never gets the chance to fully form. 
I'd suggest, if we could to try and avoid completely topping out on the many 
top ropes that get dropped it would give the ice a chance to fatten up, save 
our picks from getting beaten down and prevent the periodic rockfall coming 
down. The canyon is very popular with the Icewalk tours and the guides are 
great at controlling their groups around the climbs but there is a l
 ot of the unaware general public without helmets so make sure to share the 
tight space when knocking ice down.

Climbed Lady Wilson's Cleavage to Wilson Major Basin on Monday. The Cleavage is 
giving very easy travel all the way to the basin with only two actual climbing 
steps of short easy ice (grade 2). A reasonably solid crust keeps you out of 
the facets for the majority of steps right from the road and up the drainage. 
The first step of ice is narrow and tends to push the left foot onto polished 
rock with only a small lens of ice at times. This can be easily by-passed to 
the left in the vegetation. The rest is easy walking with a couple of short ice 
steps. Wilson Major is in great shape with the majority of the middle curtain 
going at grade 5, the longest being a full 70m strenuous grade 5 to 5+. The 
left and right sides of the curtain offer the only moderate grade 3 to 3+/4 
stepped climbs. The lower apron of snow leading to the climbs has a 
unsupportive 10cm crust over facets but is not a avalanche hazard at this time. 
Unseen and above is a very large avalanche slope that can load up with 
 south winds and had most of the Wilson snow field as fetch. We have no 
concerns for this releasing naturally at this time and we control this slope as 
part of our active avalanche road control. Debris will pummel Wilson Major, the 
cleavage and associated climbs in the feature with extreme prejudice. Although 
it is in Banff National Park it is in the Jasper Avalanche forecasting region 
and it should be part of your trip planning to make it a habit of considering 
both the Banff and Jasper Park bulletins when looking to climb on Mt. Wilson 
and Cirrus Mountain (Polar Circus and the Weeping Wall). For up to date photos 
of poplar climbs on the icefields parkway and the Mountain Parks check out our 
photo galleries on the Parks Mountain Safety Facebook page. 

Jasper Visitor Safety 
Jasper National Park           
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