[MCR] Rockies - Carlsberg Column & Pilsner Pillar

Greetings,

I guided Carlsberg Column & then linked up Pilsner Pillar's first pitch with a guest today.

*Carlsberg has been refreshed with new ice. Not hooked out and offering a good challenge. Doing the approach ice instead of the walk around seemed a better option this year.

The route has a mushroomed groove on the left that provides great climbing and foothods. It was a bit wet but totally climbable. The 20 meter or so pitch that sometimes forms above and right of the main flow is well worth doing right now (cord around tree for rap). Breaking up the first flow by stopping at the mid-ledge bolts then provides three good pitches.

*60 meter double ropes do not reach the ground from the bolt anchor at the base of the main Carlsberg Pitch. I threaded a little pillar just above the approach ice for the last rap - 70's should make it.

*Pilsner was excellent and technical. Placing good protection is not straight forward in some sections of chandelier and hollow ice. This route was also wet but totally climbable. The lower angled ice above is bare of snow and seems excellent for several additional pitches of plastic blue ice.

*I watched some folks rap off just a little too far climbers left over a fully dripping and precarious looking hanging dagger. This can easily be avoided by keeping the rap line to the right of a prominent bump that sits on the edge atop of the pitch.

Eric Dumerac
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide
www.mountainskillsacademy.com
www.whistlerguides.com

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