Marco D and I delicately inched our way up Happy Days today. A rarely formed
climb next to Ice Nine on Mt. Wilson. Mild weather, good snow stability, and
good ice conditions gave us the confidence to attempt the line today. A thin
layer of cloud kept the solar heating down today.
Quick approach up the drainage on a mostly supportive snowpack. No slab
properties in the approach gully and little snow in the terrain above the
route. Debris near the base indicated a size 2 avalanche ran from above the
route sometime in the last week. We noted surface hoar crystals 2-3mm in size
on the approach slopes treeline and below.
Happy Days climbed at WI6+ X. First decent screw is at the roof, 20m off the
deck, above the fractured pillar. Although the route has seen some traffic,
the climbing is challenging and by no means hooked out.
Most of Ice Nine looks be in good shape, however the last 5 meters looks quite
thin.
Kris Irwin - ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
Ice Nine
Happy Days
_______________________________________________
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