[MCR] Columbia Icefields - Mt Athabasca

I guided an ascent of the Silverhorn on 1 June.

One of the only clear nights in the past week, we enjoyed an amazing refreeze. There's limited snow on the approach trail, with about only 100m in the bowl before the final morainal ridge. Given the refreeze, we found fairly supportive travel on the glacier, a breakable crust with foot penetration between 5-20cm. There was 5-10cm of new snow above 2800m.

On the Silverhorn, the bergschrund was mostly filled in with an easy step over. Above, we experienced supportive snow for about 1 rope length. Beyond there was 10-20cm new over 0-30cm old snow over ice. Crampons were beneficial and we dug easily for good ice screw belays.

We descended to the AA glacier with great conditions, thanks to the refreeze. Below the glacier, the trail was mainly free of snow, except for a few remaining pockets.

For some shots of the practice gullies and the AA col proper, check the link below:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gcy9b4a4nloielj/AAAmKTBQfsgxcLMm6NoVO70Aa?dl=0&s=so

There are still moderate cornices over the practice gullies.

Brent Peters

Alpine Guide

PeakStratagem.com

Silverhorn.jpg
Description: JPEG image

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