| Summited Mt. Gaibaldi Yesterday via the North East Ridge with two clients. The access road up Brohm Ridge is rocky and ruff 4x4 required. We had perfect late August conditions on the mountain. Well settled mid boot foot penetration at worst during the hottest part of the day. We didn't need crampons all day. Cravasses are still well covered and route finding was strait forward to get up the mountain. When we summited at 7:25am yesterday it was already +18c on the summit. (No blue ice showing, yet) Getting through the bergschrund was not an issue. We were able to walk into the schrund and exit to the left up a short steep snow slope.(shown in first photo) Most of the overhang on the schrud has fallen off, however there are some sections that are still there with cracks formed behind them on the up hill side. It is unable to see the cracks from bellow. Rappelling the bergschrund was not necessary on the decent. Now is a great time to head up there before all the crevasses and bergschrund opens up.
Burgschrund and route photo |