[MCR] Estella Peak, Jasper National Park. 3069m

Spent the day climbing what is apparently a unconfirmed first ascent of the East Ridge of Mt Estella in the Circus Valley of Jasper National Park. Located 6 km west of Marmot Mountain (Marmot Basin Ski Hill), 4 km NW of the more popular Peveril Peak in Portal Creek this 3069m peak boasts some of the best white quartzite climbing I've seen in the Rockies. Only 5(?) known ascents via 2 south face snow couloirs since 1930. The 1000m East Ridge goes from the Manx-Estella col at grade IV 5.8/9 with an elevation gain of 440ms. Predominantly exposed 4 class scrambling between short 5 class steps of 5.5 to 5.7 leads to 50ms of gorgeous 5.8/9 climbing to the summit on white quartzite. We took a single 60m rope and standard rack of small Camelots (0.4 to 3), wires and 6 runners which the route eagerly gobbled up in the climbing pitches. We generally stayed on the ridge proper and we'd often traverse on obvious goat ledges to the south-face to avoid shear climbing and found short very exposed but easier stepped terrain to bring us back onto the ridge. As with any Rockies routes it's not entirely perfect and whether it's due to the non-existent travel or fresh snow free areas on the ridge we did find a short band at 2800ms that was dangerously loose. Purely scrambling at this point, but lots of very unstable large talus which shifts underfoot and we narrowly avoided a crushed leg injury when a large boulder shifted and rolled just past me taking lots of debris with it down the north aspect. Last know ascent (very short summit register) in 2011 from the south and we assumed they descended the easier west ridge and down from the Majestic/Estella col back into the Circus Valley and out to Portal Creek. We descended the east ridge with 3 raps and scrambling down to the Manx col and out Portal Creek. You should expect to do a few more raps as the down climbing is quite exposed at times. Lots of excellent features and pitches to create safe anchors for both belays and raps. A bear to approach from the Portal Creek side as no defined trail system exists back as far as you need. Another approach would be up over the ski hill and Terminal, Manx Peaks to the col. Expect a reasonable 2 days or a long 1 day by this approach or do it as part of the yet uncompleted (unknown) Circus Loop which connects beautifully over 7 peaks if you include Marmot Mountain in the mix. This peak deserves more visits as it could easily be considered a real classic Rockies ridge climb similar in character to Tupper or Sir Donald in quality and aesthetics. Good radio and satellite communication from this location but no wayward cell coverage, though you can get a signal from the top of Manx peak. It's worth it's weight to consider carrying a Spot, Inreach or similar PLB or Sat phone for emergency communications. 

Deryl Kelly and Tim McCallister

Jasper Visitor Safety

Jasper National Park

      

Mt. Estella East Ridge JNP.jpg
Description: JPEG image

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