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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 30, 2015
Lots of wet weather over the last week left 10-30 cm of fresh snow above 2800 meters across all the mountain regions. This has since melted in most places, but north facing and shady areas above 3000 meters are still holding snow in places. Any of this lingering snow will probably melt over this weekend, as blue skies are forecast into next week with valley bottom high temperatures reaching above 30 degrees.
Despite the fresh snow, the theme of the mountain conditions continues to be dry. Bare ice and rockfall are everywhere. Today I climbed Sunshine Crack in the Bugaboos, and spent the whole day overlooking the Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col. Rockfall was constant, all day starting from early morning and still going when we left; big, fast moving rocks. The place looks awful, and I think itâ??s fair to simply say â??donâ??t go thereâ??. That place is out.
Conditions like this require creativity or changing plans. We had to do a complicated alternate start to reach our route today and avoid exposure to the B-S col, and the popular Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire is basically unreachable without doing a huge glacier loop around Pigeon Spire.
Same story in the Rockies, and especially with the heat this weekend, stay away from the big ice faces and gully features. Stick to areas with no overhead hazard, and park the snow and ice objectives for another time. Lots of dry rock to climb, so take advantage of that.
Have a great weekend.
Grant Statham
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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