[MCR] Conditions - Mount Fay & The Neil Colgan Hut Area

Hi everyone,

I spent the past few days at the Neil Colgan Hut with two guests on a 3 Day Cloud Nine Guides Mount Fay & Neil Colgan Hut Program.  We used the Perren route for access and climbed the West Ridge of Mt. Fay on Sunday and scrambled up Bowlen on Monday morning before descending.

The two short ice faces used to access the West Ridge of Fay still have a couple good snow bridges over the bergrschrund.  With an early start we avoided any rockfall on the ice pitches.  In order to avoid this same hazard we descended via the SW face in the late morning.  Despite the usual scrappy scree, it felt less threatening than the north side descent because of less sun exposure at that time in the morning and generally less steep terrain.

The other north face routes on Fay seem to have changed little since the last report on them.

Generally, lots of rockfall was observed by mid/late morning with the warm temps and mild overnight freezes.

Pierre Hungr

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide

Cloud Nine Guides

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