[MCR] Tonquin Valley Aug 9-14

Subject: [MCR] Tonquin Valley Aug 9-14
Date: Sat, 15 Aug 2015 14:24:43 -0600
I was fortunate to spend 6 days hiking and climbing in the Tonquin Valley, based out of the Wates Gibson hut with the ACC 55+ group. The hut was full of adventurous climbers and trekkers heading in many directions every day.

Our group climbed McDonnell Peak on August 11th via the Fraser glacier. We accessed the glacier via the right side on loose moraine features, but avoided crevasses and steeper sections of ice. The upper slopes were still snow covered and gave easy access to the col. Another party that climbed Simon Peak used the left side of the Fraser glacier which may have been easier and less convoluted.

Thunderbolt Peak was climbed on August 12th. We descended from the hut to Chrome Lake. After another 5 minutes or so down the trail, in the first dip in the trail, a cairn on the uphill side marks the start of a flagged route up through the timber to treeline. (MG 16746 35738) A short talus slope above treeline leads easily to the NW ridge and easy scrambling to the summit. Descent can be made by the first main drainage to the west, leading down (with some steep bush) to just south of Chrome Lake. You can also retrace the route up.

Other parties in the hut climbed Simon Peak, Paragon, Benington, the SE ridge on Outpost to Memorial and down west ridge, as well as an unnamed peak at the end of the Eremite Valley.

As is the ongoing trend of this summer, the ice routes are in poor shape. Many of the classic routes in the Eremite Valley (Anchorite, Alcove and Angle peak) we basically down to rock and lots of dirty ice.

The standard route on Outpost which uses a ramp leading to the North glacier seems to now have a large stream crossing through it. This may be due to a shift in the water flow on the glacier above. (I certainly don't remember this from years past)
This route may still work but no parties went that way.

On the rock routes conditions were as good as it gets.

We spent a day in the Eremite Valley hiking. A spectacular loop was done heading up the valley to the lake below the col, then bearing left onto a large bench feature under the ridge of Thunderbolt where we descended past numerous lakes and streams and regained the trail near the bridge that crosses the creek upstream of Chrome lake.

Overall conditions were excellent and the bugs were almost non existent. Lots of wildlife in the area including a grizzly mother and two cubs that stormed through the front yard outside the hut!. (We think the closing of the outhouse door scared them, almost as much as they scared one person who was brushing their teeth just out back)



Peter Amann MG
Dave Smith    MG

Peter Amann

www.incentre.net/pamann/
pamann@xxxxxxxxxxxx

Attachment: Eremite Peaks.JPG
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Attachment: Outpost view.JPG
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Attachment: outpost ramp.JPG
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