![]()
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued September 4, 2015
The mountains have been hit by the first significant snow accumulations of the fall season over the last two weeks, and Environment Canada has just issued the season's first snowfall warning for southern Alberta!
Snow amounts vary greatly depending on how close you are to the divide. A climbing party on Unnamed, an alpine rock climb in the Lake Louise area, reported 25 cm from the base of the route to the summit a couple of days ago, and the Wapta is covered in over 30 cm of recent snow. On the other hand, Castle Mtn was climbed three days ago and was reported to be snow-free, though that may have changed by now. Here in Canmore there is only a light dusting of snow high on the north aspects, but today dawned cold and claggy and the forecast is calling for more rain and cold temps throughout the weekend.
The Columbia Mountains have a slightly higher snowline with 10-15cm at 2300 m, but likely a lot more as you travel higher. Snow was down as low as Hermit Campground and Balu Pass but is melting back, with 135 mm (!) of rain at Rogers Pass reported since a week ago.
The mountains are drier to the North with the Columbia Icefields, Mt. Robson, and Jasper areas seeing less snow, but there have been no reports from guides out of these areas since August 27 when Mt. Robson was climbed in good condition.
The storm snow over the past week was accompanied by fierce winds, and small wind loaded avalanches and 60+cm drifts were reported from the Wapta Icefields and Lake O'Hara areas. With the forecast this is something that is not likely to improve over the next few days. Watch for small wind loaded pockets, and for solar triggered sluffing when things finally warm up. It's not too early to consider adding avalanche gear to your equipment list -- transceiver and lightweight probe and shovel -- if your climbing plans include alpine gullies or ice faces.
When the sun returns again, possibly as early as the start of next week, lower elevation and south facing rock climbs should come into condition quickly. Higher elevation ice faces could also be really good, but make sure to time it so you are off before the snow warms and the rockfall starts. High north facing rock routes would be a bad idea at this point. The new snow has also covered up some of the smaller crevasses and made the glacier travel a bit tricky for the time being. Use your ski pole to probe frequently and keep the rope tight on the ice.
The nights are getting longer and the temperatures colder so throw in an extra warm layer and some fresh headlamp batteries while you get out.
Tom Wolfe
ACMG Mountain Guide
|
![]()
|
![]()
|
![]()
|
|
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
|