We climbed the Y Couloir on Stanley Pk yesterday, approaching via the left ice tongue.
The tongue was hard, brittle ice.
Easy manoeuvring around the crevasses with firm snow conditions.
A bodylength of mixed climbing bypassed the schrund and the couloir itself was ankle to boot top penetration and easy traveling.
We descended the NW Ridge, which was dry in its lower half.
Note that there are tracks in a gully off the NW Ridge which is not the descent gully marked in the Selected Alpine Climbs book. It may work but it may not.
A few unclimbable smears of ice about and no skiing options to be had!
Mark Klassen
ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide |