[MCR] ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 5, 2015

ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued November 5, 2015 Winter is settling in and things are definitely freezing together more than melting apart. There has been a fair bit of new snow this week though still not enough for decent skiing, exceptions being on the glaciers and isolated Treeline elevation zones in the interior ranges. Early season ice climbing has begun, but it's a slow start and the pickings are still pretty slim. The weather forecast into the weekend looks cold and cloudy with unsettled weather and little in the way of snowfall expected. Avalanche hazard has become a major concern. There have been numerous reports of avalanche activity lately and a few close calls already. Avalanche gear should be on everyone's gear list now, the exceptions being lower elevation ice with no slopes overhead, or where you know for certain that the snowpack is below threshold. Ranger Creek is especially notorious at this time of year for surprising -- and often almost killing -- climbers who are unaware of the threat of massive overhead avalanche slopes. As ice climbing is kicking into gear, remember that it's still very early season. Thin fresh ice overlaying warmer rock is not as resilient to temperatures fluctuations throughout the day as mature mid-season ice. It also provides less reliable protection. Travel on glaciers continues to be very complex. The past year has been expecially hard on the glaciers and we're seeing a lot of large crevasses in patterns that are more unpredictable than usual. These crevasses are filling in with soft facetted bridges that are not to be trusted. Travel carefully, roped up, and probe often. Tom Wolfe ACMG Mountain Guide === For those of you who are interested in the latest observations from ACMG guides in the field, read on. Cariboos/Monashees ------------------ Early season heavy wet snowfalls have reportedly beat the alder down, and OK skiing on a 45-55 cm snowpack over smooth treeline elevation terrain has been reported. Strong winds have redistributed the recent snow, smoothing things out but also creating some pretty hard skiing surfaces. K-Country --------- 20-40 cm of new snow with a lot of wind. In Ranger Creek, R&D was climbed a couple of days ago and reported in good early season condition, meaning a bit challenging with trickier than normal protection. The same day a party backed off of Lone Ranger after being dusted by a small avalanche from above. Chalice and the Blade is in marginal but climbable condition. The window of carefree early season climbing in Ranger Creek was small to non-existent this year, and caution with the avalanche hazard will be required for the remainder of the winter. Banff/Kootenay -------------- Stanley Headwall is off to a slow start with no climbable ice lines yet. Lake Louise got 30-40 cm of new snow. A party on Aberdeen two days ago reported 25-55 cm snow depth on the approach to the glacier and up to 90 cm on the ice. The Tease is forming but not yet climbable. A few guided parties on Mt. Whyte this week experienced whoompfing and shooting cracks on 30 degree snow slopes at 2700 m. Icefield Parkway ---------------- Ice climbing for the most part is still not formed and needs at least a few more days to come into condition. Some high obscure alpine ice is starting to look pretty good. Asteroid Alley was attempted this week but conditions were extra challenging due to the lack of ice in the chimney. Overnight lows have been in the -15 C range, daytime highs below freezing -- so, perfect conditions for waterfall ice formation. Bow Summit has got 20 cm of HS, 20-40 cm in the alpine, so skiing for the next couple weeks at least will be limited to the glaciers. Glacier Park ------------ Rogers Pass has had some early season skiing action, with a dozen or so people heading up Connaught Creek after the last storm reporting a skiable 60 cm snowpack at Treeline elevations and reasonable snow quality with the cold weather drying things out a bit.
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.

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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The 
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in 
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable 
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information 
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions 
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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