[MCR] Ice Conditions in Lac Des Arc

Hi Everyone,

Climbed Irish Mist with Erica Roles today.  We approached by taking a look at the Waterhole (climber's right of Irish Mist - 1st photo) and it was super thin ice overlaid on baby bum smooth limestone so no chance of rock gear to protect.

Irish Mist (second photo) was in good shape, but in thin early season shape.  Take an assortment of stubby ice screws and swing lightly.  The first 10 meters is quite easy but very thin with a bolt 4-5 meters up to protect.  We belayed on a ledge (10 meters up) with another single bolt and a good 0.3 Camelot for an anchor and then did the second 30 meter pitch to a bolted station on the climber's right.  The bolts we used were placed for a mixed climb to the right of Irish Mist that shares the start.

Just wanted to give a head's up that is was in; as it is difficult to see if the very bottom of the route is in from the road.  It has ZERO avalanche hazard.  A good option in the coming days given the incoming storm later today and the likely high hazard that will prevail for a number of days afterward.

Take Care,

Paddy Jerome

ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide 

(C) 403 609 0795

Waterhole 151112.JPG
Description: JPEG image

Irish Mist 151112.JPG
Description: JPEG image

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