Hi MCR Subscribers,
The Moonlight area is in great early season shape. In spite of the warming
trend, the Evan Thomas climbs exhibited tension (shooting cracks from axe and
crampon placements) from previous cold nights this morning. The upper sections
of all three climbs are weeping and reforming. We climbed Snowline and 2 Low 4
Zero. Another party climbed Moonlight. We all found 10 and 13cm screws helpful
for the first pitches.
A couple of notes for those who don't have recent beta:
1) There is an anchor on the ledge between Moonlight and Snowline (often
covered later season). When climbing Snowline it is at about 65m. It is a 60m
rope stretching rappel straight down to the ground.
2) There is an anchor on the ledge on the right above the small roof (1 bolt
here) and steepest climbing on 2 Low 4 Zero at about 60m.
Of interest were the number of v-threads already in place on all routes and the
size of cord that has been used. There are all sizes from what looked to be 4mm
up to the standard 7mm. Also, a number of the threads have very short tails on
the knots. I would encourage all climbers to inspect these threads before
clipping them blindly for the quality (depth) of the thread, size and quality
of cordage and knot. It does make sense to preserve the integrity of the dry
and thin ice for threads to be in place and re-used instead of the inevitable
honeycombing.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
Apprentice Ski Guide
PeakStratagem.com
Sent from my iPhone _______________________________________________
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