| Hello Everyone
Thanks to the ACMG MCR Committee for allowing this post about route finding rather than conditions.
With the opening of the new Guy Hut on the Wapta Icefield, the area around Mt Collie and Mont Des Poilus has seen a recent surge in traffic. Having co-wrote a guidebook and map to the area (Summits & Icefields: Alpine Ski Tours in the Canadian Rockies and Summits and Icefields Map: Wapta Icefields and Bow Summit), I wanted to provide an update on routes that access the hut. I completed the Bow-Yoho Traverse on March 24-27 and was able to re-verify the routes outlined in the book and on the map now that the hut is actually in operation.
GETTING TO THE GUY HUT FROM THE EAST (AND TRAVELING TO THE EAST FROM THE HUT)
Chic Scott wrote the Yoho Traverse description in the guidebook. His “safer alternative” route on Page 182 that describes a way along a ridge to gain the Glacier Des Poilus from the Mt Collie area passes right by the hut. This is the easiest way to get to the hut from the east. An image is attached to this email with the route marked on a snippet of map. Some additional route finding information for this option follows:
- Gain the ridge via a small col at the base of the “prominent rock cliff” mentioned in the guidebook. This col is at MGRS 296157, 2750 m. Although it is possible to contour into this col from the glacier, that route traverses a steep slope and it is probably safest to ski a nice pitch down the glacier until just below the col and then skin up to the col (you will need to skin along the ridge for a short ways regardless). There are a couple of open crevasses below the slope used to get to the col. On the ridge itself be careful of cornices and the crack between the ridge and the cornices (the cleave); a skier fell into a cleave there a couple of days ago.
The route to the hut from the east which is marked on the map by a red line is possible but it is not the easiest or safest way to get there. The advantage of this route is that it initially gives a good ski run. However, from the bottom of that run at about 2500 m in the moraine below the glacier it is necessary to ascend to the hut, and the safest way to do so may be a bit difficult. The following would be the safest way (this is not exactly as shown on the map):
- Gain the base of a ridge to the southwest and follow it all the way up to the main ridge about 100 m above and to the north of the hut. This main ridge is the route described in the guidebook. You can skin partway up this route but at one point you will need to walk and this would include negotiating some small rock outcrops. It could be difficult especially in unconsolidated snow conditions.
There are also two other ways from the bottom of the glacier run. One crosses a very steep avalanche slope. Although SW facing, it seems to get wind loaded (at least it was the other day). The other possibility is a bit complex and awkward, crosses some small avalanche terrain and is exposed to a larger slope above; this is the approximate route as shown on the map. Neither of these routes is the best option.
TRAVELING BETWEEN THE GUY HUT AND THE GLACIER DES POILUS
The safest way to get to the Glacier Des Poilus from the hut is to use smaller, disconnected terrain starting from the south end of the col and bumping slightly skier’s left a few times. There are still some steep slopes here but they are smaller than a direct route between the hut and glacier. This spot will be difficult route finding in poor visibility. This route is also marked on the image attached to this email.
Note that the glacier has receded drastically since the glacial dataset for the map was created and there is now a lake at the toe.
I hope this helps with route finding around the new Guy Hut. Comments or additional information are welcome, feel free to email me at the address below.
Mark Klassen ACMG-IFMGA Mountain Guide Banff-Lake Louise, Canada
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