My fellow guide, Peter Thurlow, and I guided the North Face of Mt
Athabasca yesterday, June 12th. Lots of information from the
Athabasca area yesterday so we'll just add on in the believe that
more information is better.
It is the days of the overnight frozen crust and we found ok travel
on the North Athabasca Glacier if you followed old tracks below 9,500
feet (we followed old descent tracks as they got us farther away from
the seracs on the N side of the mountain), above that -basically at
the base of the Silverhorn- the frozen surface carried well.
There has been a couple of large serac avalanches into the north
basin recently, and it looks like there is more to come as there is a
large serac tower seperated from the hanging Silverhorn Glacier on
all sides (see photo) ready to go. We didn't dally across the basin -
put your head down and get a move on.
The bergshrund was crossed easily on an eyebrow of snow. The frozen
crust over moist snow did not grant enough foot penetration for short-
roping so we climbed 5th class (note that it is not very often that a
guide can short-rope there). We had two seperate snow picket belays
(having two snow pickets with us was good), one at 30 meters (the
shrund crossing) and the second a full 60 meters higher. Both of
these anchors were enhanced by first compressing a square meter of
snow before picketing, or T-slotting. 60 meters higher again the
snowpack shallowed out and I could dig down to ice for screw anchors
in less than a meter.
There is a nice amount of ice in the crux right now and it is easier
than when it all gets hacked out, or melts, in later season. Fun
climbing.
We descended down the AA Col route and it was still holding together
well -not avalanching from the sun- at 15:00. I think that this will
not be the case given a clear sky and the warmer air temperatures
that have to come soon.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
The hanging serac that should serve to hasten one across the North Basin
_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
|