[MCR] Mt Hector, July 12, 2011

Had a fun day guiding Mt Hector with Kris Iwin and Rockies Ice Specialists today.  We traveled up the North Glacier to the summit this morning and descended by traversing along the North Ridge over 'Little Hector' and back down. 

 

There no significant overnight freeze however travel was good to the summit.  Foot penetration started as ankle deep at the toe of the glacier and stayed at boot top depth above 3000m.  We used crampons on the final steep bit to the summit due to some ice below the snow, but this could be avoided right now.  Crevasses were well bridged and just beginning to sag in some spots.  Very good coverage overall on the glacier.

 

Despite the good travel it was easy to push a ski pole in over a metre deep in the isothermal snow above 3000m and we were happy not to be on anything steeper than we encountered today.  We could kick off small surface sluffs in steeper terrain by the time we descended the upper glacier at 0930.  Cornices along the N ridge were sagging badly and several have failed in the last few days/week, some pulling out small slabs to size 2 in steep terrain.

 

Excellent bivy spot at 2600m just N of Little Hector with running water and a good crevasse rescue practice slope 25m from the tent. 

 

The scramble routes on Little Hector and Andromache (viewed from afar) both have some snow patches but are in shape.

 

Cheers, Conrad Janzen
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide

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