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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 20, 2011
Weather
Scattered storms earlier this week deposited small amounts of storm snow (up to 5 cm in the Rockies) which has been melting quickly with the recent fine weather.
Conditions
Snow and ice routes are currently in excellent condition. Solid overnight freezes with clear skies and below freezing temperatures have made for good crust development and good travel. Upper elevation rock routes have been in and out of condition but are drying out on all but sheltered north facing and high elevation regions. Glacier coverage is the best it's been for more than a decade with much of the crevasses and rubble than have plagued us in recent years well covered.
Hazards
This is a good window for alpine climbing in the western ranges. Watch for snow covered rock and verglass conditions which could early in the day make for tricky climbing and late in the day represent a rockfall hazard. With such great overnight freezes hazards of rockfall and cornice failures will be minimized with early starts but will increase with daytime heating.
With minimal amounts of recent storm snow and a good mature summer snow pack avalanche hazard is low throughout the western ranges until the next major storm cycle -- which doesn't seem to be on the forecast for the next week in any case.
Route Selection
High alpine rock routes that are normally in condition by this time of year -- such as Edith Cavell's E ridge, Temple's East Ridge or Sir Donald's NW Ridge -- will have more than normal snow cover and may be more challenging or even downright ill-advised (e.g. Hungabee, Goodsirs). Be sure to consider your objectives with this in mind, especially above 3000m, and take into account potentially slower than usual climbing and/or the necessity of an ice axe or crampons that wouldn't normally be required. Big alpine snow and ice routes however, such as Athabasca or Andromeda, are about as good as it gets for this time of the year. Lower alpine rock routes (<3000m) seem to have dried up quickly with only minimal patches of snow to be found and should be in great shape.
Regards,
Tom Wolfe
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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