[MCR] Coast Mountains - Tantalus Range

Here is some info from the Tantalus Group just outside Squamish.

 

The mountains were very dry, observed no rockfall as there appeared to be very few remaining snow patches. A few centimeters of moist snow overlying firm old snow or ice made for slippery and annoying walking but balled up crampons were preferable to not wearing any.

 

Serratus Pk. - Crevasses on Serratus N face were easily managed and the bergshrund was overcome by traversing climbers right to a short rock spur. We descended via the bolted W face route which was probably a better than the chossy S gulley but you must pull your ropes and downclimb loose downsloping terrain before reaching the next anchor.

 

Mt Dionne  - The only place I saw to cross the bergschrund was on the climbers R of the face. A wide stem between the glacier and the stone got us on the face but am uncertain how long this option will exist with present rates of melting. A large snow mushroom above forced us to climb rotten 5.7 rock to eventually easier ground and the summit.

 

Tim Pochay

IFMGA Guide

 

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