Climbed Rainbow Serpent today in the Ghost with my friend and fellow guide
MB Board.
Temps hovered around –5c for most of the day and the winds were calm to
light – making for very enjoyable ice climbing conditions.
The approach pitches to Aquarius were very wet, but thankfully short.
Aquarius is excellent shape offering good protection throughout and is
completely dry. Bring at least one short screw to protect the thin ice
nearing the top of the second pitch.
Rainbow Serpent was excellent. There has been at least a couple of
parties up the route already, which made it easier to find good tool and ice
screw placements. The pillar at the bottom on the first pitch and the
upper pillar on the second pitch has cracked horizontally across its width, but
still seems to be standing strong. Be aware though, it is still difficult
to judge how strong these delicate features actually are. We were lucky to
have a photographer with us to get some great pics!
Driving conditions in the Ghost are as good as it gets right now.
Play safe,
Kristopher
Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
MB
Board – ACMG Ski and Apprentice Alpine Guide
