[MCR] Bourgeau Left

I guided Bourgeau Left today, December 22nd.  Winds were light this morning on our approach, and calm once we reached the base around 0845 am.  There was an average of 8cms of new snow at valley bottom that fell overnight with very little wind.

My guest and I enjoyed good ice and a couple doses of the screaming-barfies on our chilly ascent.  We were hoping for a bit of sun to warm our souls, but it only showed itself for 10 minutes before more clouds rolled in.

We followed an old trail up climbers right of the drainage to the base of the WI2 approach pitch.  Unlike my last two ascents of this route, the first WI4 pitch was well bonded to the rock behind it and offered good protection with mostly 13cm screws for the first 25m.  The last pitch felt harder this time around with some very steep WI5 ice in the last 5-6 meters before topping out.  The route was completely dry and not as brittle as I was expecting, given the low temperatures of last night.  FYI - you can descend the route in 3 rappels with 2x70m ropes.  Thanks to whomever added the new anchors to the start of the first pitch and the top of the 2nd pitch as the old ones were getting rusty.

 

We did not witness any avalanche activity.

 

 

Kristopher Irwin – ACMG Alpine Guide
www.rockies-ice.com
www.facebook.com/RockiesIce
Twitter: @rockiesice
Banff

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