[MCR] Quick and Dirty and Experts Choice, Waterton, March 4-5, 2013

Our crew decided to move down to Waterton after a couple days of climbing in the Ghost along with Joe McKay.

Climbed on Quick and Dirty, French Kiss and Le Pillar des Putains yesterday. Generally the ice is in good shape however the top pitch of French Kiss has some thin ice and bare rock spots as a result of the warm spell a few days ago.

Broke trail into Experts Choice today and guided the first 25m of the Left Side, then over to the upper two pitches of the Middle Route to make a nice three pitch WI4+ line. The ice is in very good shape with good protection throughout. The first pitch of the Middle Route has a settlement crack in it but still appears to be quite solid. The Right Side looks fully formed and in good shape as well. Got rid of a couple large icicles hanging over the Left Side while rappelling. Should be reasonable to climb under the remaining lip of ice unless it gets really hot out.

Of note Upper Waterton Lake froze last night for the first time this season, not thick enough to travel on but kind of neat to see!

 

--

Conrad Janzen

ACMG / IFMGA Mountain Guide

Banff Mountain Guides

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