Hey there,
Guided an attempt on Polar Circus Yesterday (Friday) that saw us within 2
pitches of the top.
The route was in good shape, and had minimal sun affect up to our high point.
Our goal was to be up and off the route before any daytime solar affect kicked
in. Even with an alpine start, I was surprised at both the early timing and
intensity of the radiation yesterday. Hence the reason for pulling the pin.
Most of the walking between pitches was on well set up avalanche debris (from
recent control work) which made things quick, the exception being the snow
slopes as you turn the pencil.
The lower tier of snow, pounded by the recent avalanches, was free of
instability. The snow slope which turns back left to gain the upper pitches
though, still has a large slab overlaying a faceted basal layer which didn't
run during the last cycle. Felt good crossing when it was cold early on, but
spooky on the way down with things warming up.
Still a ton of snow on the rock slabs overtop the lower half of of the route
that are also going to run into the climbing line as things heat up.
If you're goin' for it, go fast and get it while its cold.
Cline River Gallery was great today too, in its usual shape with a fun WI5 line
on climbers left of the main flow. Some hooky stuff, and some fresh lines to
play on too. Good times all in.
Off to find something out of the heat for tomorrow... Enjoy the rest of the
weekend!
Mike Trehearne
Cloud Nine Guides Inc.
Trip Photos @ www.facebook.com/cloudnineguides
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