I guided an ascent of the East Ridge of Mt Temple yesterday, July 14th. The
route is in good early season shape with a healthy amount of snow above the Big
Step (the Big Step is dry and climbed fine). We put on crampons for the
traverse to the exit gully, good step kicking yesterday in firm summer snow
that had the top 10 cms softened by the sun but frozen under that as the day
was quite cool. We followed the double-ring-bolt-anchor-exit which is found by
traversing to a chimney/pinnacle where the first two ring bolts are found,
basically straight up from there. I didn't find the third ring bolt station as
it is under snow and ice right now. We avoided the use of crampons in the exit
gully, which is largely rock climbing, by kicking, or cutting, steps in the
snow and ice when we had to touch it. The summit glacier is holding snow and
provided good step kicking with crampons on.
The descent is pocked with strips and patches of snow and ice that demanded
some deviations from the prime line.
Several other parties on the route and mountain that we caught up with in Larch
Valley.
A grizzly sow and cub crossed the Moraine Lake parking lot within 10 metres of
me at 10 pm as I sat waiting for my young gun client to cycle up and retrieve
the Van. He had the bear spray so I retreated to the washrooms. The sow and cub
ambled off into the timber, thankfully uninterested in me.
Happy trails,
Barry Blanchard
Mountain Guide
www.barryblanchard.ca
www.yamnuska.com
on the Big Step:
_______________________________________________
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