a recent picture of the col from Fri, July 12. the cornice that threatens the
climber's right hand line (the usual way around the 'schrund) has shed a
little, but is still pretty big. as well, the unsupported slopes below the
cornice are also fat & looming. we climbed McArthur that day & found good
travel on firm snow with minimal sag on any crevasses we encountered. we
elected to turn the final headwall on the NE approach on the rock spine as the
snow slope is still steep (aprox 60+ deg for about 15m) and quite firm.
dave healey, SG
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