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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 15th, 2013.
The ACMG Mountain Conditions Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued August 15th, 2013.
These fine conditions in the mountains just keep dragging on, day after day.
As Brad White mentioned last week, thunderstorms have recently been the most consistent hazard. Most forecasts feature cooler temps and don't mention lightning but we should still be checking the most recent forecast, watching the skies and keeping our retreat options in mind when we head out.
A bit of Bad news
Loose, wet snow avalanches are still a possibility in relatively few places, especially on the BIG rigs like Robson, Clemenceau, Columbia, the Cariboos, North Howser etc. Cornices have "almost" disappeared but, again, not necessarily on those really big high features. Seracs are just as likely and unlikely as ever to calve on you so, just like the back door of the creepy bar, don't hang around there!
Rockfall is probably the biggest current hazard. Beware of the effects of stumbly feet, moving ropes, intense rains and the melt freeze cycle on the rubble above you.
The Good news
Glacier travel is icy in places but should remain relatively simple and trustworthy with a good freeze and until we get enough new snow to obscure the bridges. Snow and ice faces will vary greatly but be aware that especially as the ice disappears the precariously perched rubble emerges.
The Really Good news
Most alpine ridges and pure rock routes are close to as good as they get. The big Nordwands are dry so some low angle/usually snowy features like the Dolphin on Temple will be grim but the steep rock should also be as good as it gets. Bugaboos, Columbias -oh ya!!! North Face of Cavell-still too warm for me and my head.
The vast majority of classic mixed alpine routes will be malnourished. Maybe on some north facing gully below a snow slope some climbable ice may form but c'mon-it is summer-go climb some ROCK!!!
So, get organized and get after it. Days are getting shorter and traditionally, here in Canada, winter is never far away!
Larry Stanier
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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