[MCR] Mt Robson

Spent a few days last week trying to climb the Kain face/SE ridge but we were turned away by the bergschrund and warm temperatures.  The face looked to be in good condition with ice on the right and snow on the left and minimal cornices along the ridge.  

The approach up the Robson glacier takes you over some very large snow bridges and puts you underneath some seracs coming off of the Mousetrap so picking your line ahead of time and moving quickly through the area seemed like good things to do.  The Resplendent/Robson ridge is fairly straightforward but it is time consuming with many pinnacles and lots of  "crampons on crampons off" terrain.  It took us 6 hours to get to the Dome from Extinguisher Tower.

We added a rock cairn on the Snowbird Pass trail (at about 5500ft) just before it starts to go uphill at the end of a small lake.  Look for another cairn at the shore of the lake which will lead you into a dry boulder filled draw that provides easy access onto the Robson glacier.

The normal route on Resplendent looked very icy and quite challenging.  Photos are 1: Kain Face 2: Resplendent normal route 3: Mousetrap

Have fun!

Mike Stuart

IFMGA/UIAGM Mountain Guide

CanadianAlpineGuides.com

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