[MCR] Mount Lunette and Assiniboine, Rocky Mountains, August 21-23, 2013

Went into the Hind Hut from Lake Magog on Wednesday to follow the footsteps of Outram, Hasler and Bohren on Assiniboine in 1901.

Thursday we climbed up the Sturdee Glacier with one low angle pitch of ice to the Sturdee - Assiniboine col, then dropped down the S side about 30m to a ledge system which crosses the SW face of Assiniboine. We gained the regular SW face route at about 3000m. Climbed "Lost" (Lunette) Peak and descended with two 20m rappels toward the Lunette - Assiniboine col. Then up the SW face of Assiniboine and down the N Ridge.

Despite being less technical the loose rock and route finding on the SW face of Assiniboine and Lunette made it fairly involved and we did several short pitches.

We were impressed by the onsite descent of the N Ridge in 1901 and it certainly made for a nicer route down from the peak. All in all a beautiful tour of the mountain and a testament to the skills of the original ascensionists.

The "Gmoser Highway" approach to the hut and both sides of the peak where we climbed were dry, and we only used crampons for the Sturdee Glacier.

The Hind Hut was in very good shape but a Thermarest or two may be handy when it is fully booked.

Conrad Janzen,
ACMG Mountain Guide
www.banffmountainguides.com

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