Fellow guide Patrick Delaney and I completed the alpine mountaineering section
for the Yamnuska Mountain Skills semester on Sunday. We travelled the
Athabasca, Little Athabasca (North), Boundary and AA glaciers, including
summits of Boundary Peak. On Saturday, we were joined by fellow guides Matt
Mueller and MB Board for the NF Bypass and Silverhorn routes on Mt. Athabasca.
Temperatures ranged from above freezing at valley bottom to -11C on Saturday am
at 3400m. Snow coverage is variable due to wind transport. We observed up to
50cms on the Boundary and Little Athabasca glaciers. The bottom of the snowpack
is starting to facet and wind slabs are prevalent although variable. When
ascending the left gullies to gain the N Ridge, we noted multiple settlements.
It was possible to dig down here for good ice screw belays. The upper mountain
of Athabasca is covered in new snow making for interesting mixed conditions.
The normal descent down the west slopes of the AA Col have more variable hard
slab.
Observations of the more challenging alpine routes are consistent with previous
reports. Expect dry snow covered rock with little ice. There is now a visible
gap in the ice on the classic NF of Athabasca.
Brent Peters
Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
_______________________________________________
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