Climbed Middle Earth on Andromeda today. Good snow travel on the glacier but it
would still be pretty easy to fall in a crevasse if you weren't paying
attention.
Route was in good shape all things considered. Maybe 50% hard ice and 50% good
snow. We rapped the route-so there is abalokovs every 60m and some extras
around from other recent parties. Schrund has a sporty bouldery move to start
and we finished out to the right of some small black cliffs up high to avoid
tickling the fresh looking cornices. This gives a good, slightly steeper ice
and mixed finish. It was really comforting having some pitons along!
Beautiful day at the ice fields but the wx fx may just be right as it was
raining to the north when we left around 4pm.
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan@xxxxxxxxx
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