The route is in early season conditions, thin in a number of places with
running water beside the climbing line or just under the thin ice shell.
Judging from a distance it appears the bowl above is currently below threshold
for a full path avalanche.
The June floods have changed the terrain just before the start of the climb and
also the walk (under the snow plug) to the upper pitches. It seemed to involve
climbing around bigger rocks.
Of importance...the anchors on this route are in need of replacement.
The anchor at the top of the upper grade 3 pitch has lost the nut that holds
the washer and chain in place hence only a one bolt anchor currently.
Many of the anchor bolts look like this one...or worse.
I've put this project on my list of things to do but I'm not 100% sure I will
get to it quickly.
Geoff
ACMG Mountain Guide _______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
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continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
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