It’s been 10 days since Larry’s last MCR of Cascade Fall so I thought I
would update everyone on conditions.
I guided an early morning ascent of Cascade Falls today January 21st.
Temperatures were –5c at the trailhead at 0600 and not a breath of
wind.
The ice has suffered over the past week as a result of the warm
temperatures and direct midday sun. There is a thick layer of “snice” – a
mixture of snow and ice – blanketing the route on the upper pitches. So, lots of
cleaning required to get down to good ice for protection. The lip where
the route narrows is still sporty and there is potential to punch a leg (or
more) through the “straw” and into the falls itself. I recommend careful
tiptoeing around this area if you’re up there. We walked on firm snow and old
avalanche debris between the lower pitches – the same debris that Larry
mentioned in his post. We made two 60m rappels and walked off skiers right,
through mostly faceted snow and thin windslabs.
Our strategy today was to get off this climb early. The morning sun
was quite strong, and it felt like spring up there. We were back at the car at
noon.
upper pitches
sunrise
