Guided an ascent of Lessons of Oka today with my friend Keith.
The route has not changed much I'm certain since the last posted MCR a few days
ago.
Would just like to add that there was not much for snow on either left or right
of the approach slope. The approach slope, I would not define as heavily loaded
either.
On the descent we enjoyed new bolted anchors. One anchor at the top of the main
corner (before the last pitch) provides a 30m rappel over the steep face down
to the base of the route. From the base, another down 40m (follow the ice line
that heads slightly climbers right).
Then full 70m down to your pack below the approach ice.
Alternatively, an old double ring bolt is visible 15m up the approach ice on
the left (right if your facing up) and could be used with double 60m ropes to
avoid down climbing with shorter ropes.
There was no sun on the routes today and the hang fire up high on Murchison
Falls is minimal at the moment. Virtual reality has a bit more to consider if
sunny.
The raps avoid the overhead completely on your return trip.
All in all a low stress day, a great route!
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
Yamnuska Mountain Adventures
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