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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued May 8, 2014
ACMG Mountain Conditions Report issued May 8th, 2014.
Don?t put those skis away just yet! After a brief warming period last week, snowy conditions have returned to much of the Rockies and Columbia Mountains. As much as 60cm of snow has fallen along the Continental Divide this past week. Great skiing in dry powder has been reported on north aspects at higher elevations in both the Columbias and the Rockies, and some of the bigger ski-mountaineering objectives and icefield traverses have been seeing traffic. Travel conditions are fast and easy, except when the snowpack turns isothermal below treeline. Although most Public Avalanche Bulletins are finished for the season, avalanche hazard remains a serious consideration. The basal weak layers will become reactive when the snowpack heats up, and full-depth large-scale avalanches are possible. Thin snowpack areas are a likely area for triggering and cornices are large and looming. Be acutely aware of your exposure to avalanche hazard later in the day, especially when the snowpack is w
arm and/or moist. Timing is everything and it pays to get an early start and finish early.
Glacial coverage is highly variable through the region, with more open crevasse fields than normal years. Guides are reporting some ?normal? lines are more complex and hazardous. Specific areas of concern are convexities and wind-prone areas that could have thinner bridging over crevasses.
Steep north facing terrain at higher elevations may still hold some ice climbing opportunities. Terrain choice is important with respect to avalanche hazard and ice conditions.
It is probably fair to say that even south facing alpine rock objectives will not be in shape for several weeks. Snow and ice alpine climbs should be considered in winter condition at the moment and again it is prudent to be mindful of the avalanche danger. Features such as the North Face of Athabasca and the Sky Ladder on Andromeda are sporting a fair amount of bare ice, but snowpack conditions on adjacent slopes are still in late winter or early spring mode. Very early starts are in order and carrying avalanche rescue gear would be a good idea.
Low elevation rock climbing areas in the Interior, such as Golden, Invermere and Revelstoke, are in good condition, but wet areas can be expected and some snow is lingering in shady areas. Jasper and the Bow Valley are a little on the snowier side, but the climbing is good on sunny aspects at valley bottom. Multi-pitch zones like Yamnuska still need some time to dry out. Loose holds are common at this time of year, as is naturally generated rockfall. Pitons should be considered suspect after a long winter of frost-wedging. Ticks are out along the eastern slopes of the Rockies and they are hungry!
Typical early season scrambles such as Roche a Perdrix, Roche Miette, Heart Mountain, Yamnuska and Ha Ling are still quite snowbound and may require mountaineering skills and equipment.
Friday is expected to be an unsettled day with up to 15cm of snow at higher elevations. Both Saturday and Sunday look like ?mixed bags? of sun, rain and snow, all in the same day. Keep a close eye on rising freezing levels, especially in the Columbia Mountains. And in case you haven?t noticed a theme in this summary?..start early and finish early!
Jeremy Mackenzie
ACMG/IFMGA Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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