[MCR] Silverhorn - Mt Athabasca - JNP

Climbed the Silverhorn on Mt Athabasca today (June 6).
 
Conditions were snowy and cold for our ascent with estimated wind chill values near -15 degrees in the early hours of the morning. Between 20 and 40cm of low density snow has fallen in recent days with no wind effect. The skiing would have been fantastic! This recent storm snow sits on a 5 to 10cm thick crust and the storm snow appears to be bonding well in most, but not all, areas that we explored today. Wind slab formation could lead to an avalanche problem in localized areas, but today it wasn't an issue. The buried crust provides double penetration trail-breaking with the occassional post-hole to knee deep (or worse) at lower elevations on the glaciers. This improves above 2700m where the crust becomes mostly supportive. Travel conditions are highly variable, but significant trail-breaking efforts were put forth throughout the day today with all the new snow.
 
Avalanche activity was quite limited as the storm snow stayed cool with the frigid temperatures and a bit of wind. Solar radiation was taking effect in the afternoon with moist snow and sluffing on mostly West aspects.
 
Crossing the bergshrund at the base of the Silverhorn posed no problems. The bottom third of the route and the upper third of the route are primarily ice climbing with the 20 to 40cm of storm snow sitting on top. Ice screw belays were easy to find. The middle third of the route remains quite snowy and pickets were used for belays.
 
Descent was made via the AA col route. The crust was still holding up well in this basin and the bergschrund was easy to cross. Once again we were suprised at how dry the storm snow stayed due to the frigid conditions, but this will likely change with any significant solar input and warmer temperatures. Travel conditoins on this glacier were significantly better than on the approach to the Silverhorn, North Face and Ramp routes.
 
Overall, early season conditions exist in this region with significant amounts of snow lingering in the high peaks. When this recent snow has settled out conditions should become quite favourable.
 
 
Jeremy Mackenzie
IFMGA/ACMG Mountain Guide

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