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ACMG Mountain Conditions Report Summary for the Rockies and Columbia Mountains issued July 17, 2014
Excellent summer climbing conditions continue with lots of great objectives being climbed daily.
The Bugaboos are in great condition with a little more ice showing up on the approaches and descents everyday. Sir Donald and the surrounding peaks in Rogers Pass are seeing steady traffic and are in good condition. Groups in other parts of the Selkirks and Monashees are also reporting good conditions on both snow and rock. Most of the peaks in the Lake Louise area are being climbed with snow patches still present on N aspects and at higher elevations.
Despite the hot daytime temperatures and minimal freezes overnight, snow travel has remained fairly good in most ranges. The exceptions to this seem to be at the higher elevations in the Rockies where concerns with wet unconsolidated snow on steep slopes later in the day and punchy travel in thin areas have been reported. Several full depth avalanches have also occurred on steep unsupported ice faces in Rogers Pass so it is still worth keeping those winter basal weaknesses in mind with these hot temps.
Thinner snowpack areas on glaciers and ice faces are melting out with bare ice patches now present at lower elevations. Crevasse bridges and bergschrunds are also thinning out quickly so keep the rope tight when crossing these. With the warm temperatures increased rockfall from ice faces and around snow patches as well as cornice failures will continue to be a concern in the alpine.
Alpine rock routes on solar aspects are dry while those on Northerly aspects are beginning to come into shape. Still snow patches on many of the bigger objectives in the Rockies like Alberta, Hungabee or the North Face of Temple but they are drying out quickly.
Good water sources were still present on Castle Mountain and the Ten Peaks Traverse in the Rockies, the Gimli camping area, and the Mt MacDonald to Eagle Peak traverse in Rogers Pass this last week. Creek crossings remain high in most areas with the warm weather.
The weekend weather forecast for most regions is for slightly cooler temperatures and another nice day on Friday, unsettled weather with showers on Saturday, and improving weather again on Sunday. The possibility for thunder showers is back in the forecast for most of the next week so plan to be down low by the time the lightning storm arrives. Watch for cloud buildup, bring a rain coat, and carry extra webbing or cord for rappelling back down if necessary.
Have a great week in the mountains!
Conrad Janzen
ACMG Mountain Guide
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These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted
them. The ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors,
omissions, or lapses in continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time
and space due to the variable nature of mountain weather and terrain.
Application of this information provides no guarantee of increased safety.
Do not use the Mountain Conditions Report as the sole factor in planning
trips or making decisions in the field. Please check out http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
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_______________________________________________
These observations and opinions are those of the person who submitted them. The
ACMG and its members take no responsibility for errors, omissions, or lapses in
continuity. Conditions differ greatly over time and space due to the variable
nature of mountain weather and terrain. Application of this information
provides no guarantee of increased safety. Do not use the Mountain Conditions
Report as the sole factor in planning trips or making decisions in the field.
See http://acmg.ca/mcr for more information.
See http://informalex.org/subscribe.shtml#unsubscribe to remove your name from
this list.
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