[MCR] Bugaboos to Bow Valley Rock some sellect specifics

 

Just completed a nice week of guiding with coleague Nick Sharpe and two Guests. We had to travel lots to get good climbing in.

 

Here are some specifics that might help out:

 

Bugaboo Snowpatch col:

Special caution should be taken to limit exposure to the large muddy rock filled debris streak that dominates the climbers left side, and currently makes the approach to Sunshine Crack area a little less appealing.

The Bergschrund nearly span’s the entire slope with only about 15 or 20 feet to spare.

The mudslide as spread a considerable amount of large and medium sized rock debris across the entire run out adding to the hazard of loosing footing and control below the Bergschrund.

Above the Bergschrund, the snow was quite steep and crampons and ice axe with proper technique are a must!

The recommended rappels, more or less as shown in the Atkinson/Piché Guidebook currently put a rappel team into the Bergschrund unless a hard tension rappel is used. A rappel anchor found 25m horizontally from the second bolted chain helps to reduce the tension part of the traverse right that avoids the overhanging bergschrund.

 

Haling Peak and Sisyphus Summit:

Good clean rock on 85% of the route with many protection bolts and a few anchors that feel totally in the wrong place. Most of the climbing is best done right of the bolt line, a “sport” approach, directly inline with the bolts would be considerably harder than the guidebook grade.

It is my feeling that while staying mostly on the line, clipping most of the bolts, the grade is about 11a.

For the second, the first pitch is touchy. While following the natural climbing line, the climbers feet are above the first two bolts and a ground fall is highly likely if your second comes off.

Avoid anchor number seven by using a 60m or longer rope, pass the three bolt anchor, the following crux and use the next two protection bolts on the slab above the large ledge, these two bolts are right of the directional bolt found above the cruxy top out, this bolt is sticking out about 1 ¼”. Use a 240cm sling to link the two above mentioned bolts and create an anchor, both you and your partner will be much happier, so will your feet!

Other than the less than ideal rap bolting this is an amazing fun and sustained climb!

 

Castle Mountain:

Just out of the hut this morning, weather cut our trip short.

Plenty of water in the usual gully with a bit more of a strong flow below the large boulder, scrambling is required. There were plenty downed trees on the final approach to Eisenhower yesterday. The trail down from the hut to the fire lookout was quite greasy and muddy this morning.

 

Cheers

Patrick Delaney

ACMG Alpine Guide

Yamnuska Mountain Adventures

 

 

 

 
 
Patrick Delaney
ACMG Alpine Guide
403 688 6003  
"Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value."
Albert Einstein

 

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