[MCR] 140802-04 Mt.Alberta East face, Japanese route

Hi Everybody

Three Japanese went to climb and two summited Mt.Alberta East face via Japanese route 8/2-4 under mixed weather.

Here is what we saw on our trip.

I had to stop at bottom of J-couloir so from climbing section to summit is sent on behalf of my partner Takeshi Tani.

Day1 (8/2) sunny 7.5h Car to hut

Day2 (8/3) mainly cloudy some thunder showers 22h Hut to hut

Day3 (8/4) mainly cloudy 5.5h Hut to car

Sunwapta river was under knee deep in the morining (0630) and some spots are thigh deep on our way out (1430), but easily crossed.

Approach to hut was in good shape.

Hut to bivy was mostly dry we crossed one snowpatch and used crampons in the morning.

Bivy to bottom of J-couloir was mostly dry, there were two rap stations in the first gully. 

Climbing section was all dry.

Summit ridge was mostly dry include the notch (photo attached).

We carried crampons and double axes to the summit but did not use them. 

Gear : 60m rope×2, standard rack,a lots of cordallets.

 

I don't have to say but of course all rocks are loose.

I maintained trail and added cairns on second ledge to start point of climbing during waiting time.

Have fun out there!

Yuji Akiyama, ACMG ASG

Takeshi Tani, ACMG HG

Chiharu Hoshino, Samurai

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