[MCR] Lyells and Forbes

I spent the last six days guiding the Lyells and Mount Forbes.  Perfect glacier travel conditions are to be found on the Divide at the moment.  We had enough of a freeze every night for fast travel and decent snow coverage which made for easy route finding on both the Lyell and Mons/West Glacier approaches.

Bergschrunds on Lyells 3 and 5 were open but easily crossed on large bridges.  There is no ice present yet on any of the steeper faces, including the South Face of 5, and the snow is firm enough for solid T-slot placements.  The N Ridge on Lyell 4 is in great shape with stable snow ridges in the am and dry rock on the 5.4 step.  Anchors at the base and top of the rock step are exposed and in good condition, no extra gear was needed.  We did not traverse from 4 to 5 due to logistical constraints but the connecting ridge is mainly clear of snow and looks to be in very straightforward condition.

We used the Rosita Couloir at the head of the West Glacier to access the North Glacier and then West Ridge of Mt. Forbes.  The couloir has old avalanche debris in the bottom quarter, followed by low angled scree to the top.  The NW Face of Forbes was almost all bare ice over top of a gaping bergschrund so we avoided it and stayed on the West Ridge.  The bergschrund was easily crossed on climber's right on firm snow.  A few mid-sized cams were handy to get past the lower rock steps, as well as a few screws for the 4 pitches of 35 degree snice in the middle of the route.  Lower-angled, snow-free scree made for quick travel in the top section.

Little rockfall was observed in general but we were out of exposed areas by 11am or noon each day and were happy to be off the softening snow of the glaciers by early afternoon.

The descent from the Mons Hut along the Mons Ramp is well marked and was easy to cross with some coaching through loose sections.  The Valenciennes road is passable to km 21 or so with high clearance 4x4.  The huts are in great shape with snow to melt at the Lyell and running water at the Mons.  All in all, great conditions up there right now.

Pierre Hungr

MG

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