Hi All,
I guided a trip into the Leaning Towers in the Purcell Wilderness Conservancy from Aug 3-8th, accessing them from Dewar Creek. The road to the trailhead has been worked on after the spring washouts and is now fully passable with a high clearance vehicle, otherwise you’ll need to park and hike an extra km or two. The outfitter in the area has cleared all deadfall off the trail, and regularly travels this route by horseback to the hot springs.
Early am glacier travel required crampons, and glacial retreat appears substantial compared to photos only a few years old – meaning glacier routes to access climbs may not be the same as what you might have remembered them to be if you’ve been there before or are relying on beta a few years old. We climbed Twomey Peak and also put up a new route on the East Face of Sharkshead Tower, ascended both summits, descended the east face via the rock couloirs that separates the two summits. Additional rappels from the nunatak below the east face allowed us to bypass the steep and heavily crevassed glacier section. Access between the Towers and Dewar Pass seems most enjoyable if a high contour around the moraines is maintained. The hot springs are real treat after descending from Dewar Pass.
One other party of two reported that they did two routes on the east face of Hall Peak.
Low impact (i.e. leave no trace) camping is mandatory in this beautiful, well preserved wilderness area.
Enjoy the summer!
Kirk Mauthner
IFMGA Mountain Guide
Basecamp Innovations Ltd
PO Box 399 Invermere, BC
Canada V0A 1K0
www.basecampinnovations.com
250.342.6042