Fine day on Mt Begbie North ridge, especially since we were down before the big
afternoon soaking. Excellent conditions. Bare ice on bottom 1/2 of glacier and
one place where a probe really helped cross a strip of snow with a sneaky
crevasse in it
Dry from snow up. The "ledge" now has an interesting move right off the bat
that comes up long before you reach the bolt protected moves. It is maybe 4th
class but exposed and high consequence if you fell off. A slippery horn anchor
can be found but a #1 and #2 Camalot make a fine anchor and a #3 would protect
the move well for the 2nd and the leader.
Really nice route in these conditions.
Larry Stanier
ACMG Mountain Guide
laristan@xxxxxxxxx
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